Texas has long been at the top of my bucket list, and I finally had the chance not only to visit the Lone Star state, but to tick off three major cities in the process.


A week is not a lot of time to explore the US, let alone fit in the best of three different cities, but ignoring the jet lag and fueling myself with coffee, I decided to just push through. After a pleasant enough flight on American Airlines, which flies direct from Heathrow to Dallas Fort-Worth (DFW), I arrived mid-afternoon ready to dump my suitcase and start exploring.



I never usually nap on planes, but American's new Dreamliners are actually pretty comfortable. The cabin lights were dimmed for most of the flight, which helps your body adjust to the time zone on arrival. They also had one of the cheeriest cabin crews I've ever come across, which helped me adjust my usual cynical British attitude and get ready for a week of chatting to extremely welcoming Texans. And yes, someone told me they loved my accent at least once a day.


Our first stop was a city I'd actually not heard of before: Grapevine. While it's close to DFW, just a ten minute train journey gets you to Main Street, it's often overlooked by Brits. A sign informs me that the city is the "Christmas Capital of Texas", which I discover is not just a marketing gimmick, but a title actually conferred on them by the Texan Senate after lengthy campaigning.


Being November, the city was in full swing for Christmas preparations, seemingly undeterred by the 27C heat and blazing sunshine. Along the historic Main Street, which resembled a set for a Hallmark Christmas movie, lights were being erected on every lamppost and tree, and an ice rink was being built in the town's plaza.



As someone whose guilty pleasure is movies about American small towns, Grapevine was the ideal place to stay. From the boutiques selling vintage cowboy boots to the pie shop which has apparently been crowned the fifth-best in the USA, the town was full of charm and character.


Another piece of vintage Texas is the Grapevine Vintage Railroad, a restored steam train that offers seasonal events from wine tastings to Christmas-themed experiences. We got to tour this beautifully restored train, which was decked in Christmas decorations at the time, perfectly complementing its ornate, vintage interior.


Of course, if you're coming to the USA, you'll no doubt want to do some shopping. As well as the independent shops downtown, Grapevine Mills, a sprawling modern wall, is worth a visit. It has a mixture of outlets and popular brands, so there are plenty of bargains to be found. Saks Off Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus Last Call are particularly good for finding designer brands with deep discounts.




Next it was time to head to Dallas itself. As we drove down a huge multi-lane highway alongside gigantic pickup trucks, the Dallas skyline full of shiny skyscrapers came into view. Our accommodation, the HALL Arts Hotel Dallas, was similarly stylish and modern. This five-star hotel had crisp, neutral decor, which was complemented by carefully curated modern art pieces. As we arrived, they were also adding some very chic monotone Christmas decorations made out of thousands of baubles. With a rooftop pool overlooking Dallas, it was an incredible place to stay.


As we were staying in the city's Arts District, it made sense to explore some of its cultural attractions. Firstly, the Nasher Sculpture Centre, a serene gallery and garden full of contemporary sculptures, which feels like an oasis in the middle of the bustling Dallas streets. We then headed to the Dallas Museum of Art, a winding maze of galleries with art works and artefacts from ancient to modern. One of the largest art museums in the USA, we saw pieces by Jackson Pollock, Rothko, and Edward Hopper, yet hardly scratched the surface of all the artworks on display.


The Bishop Arts District is also worth a visit if you like discovering up and coming artists. This neighbourhood is packed with quirky, independent shops selling prints, as well as vintage clothes, unusual antiques, and vinyl records. In addition to the colourful shops, you'll find some of the city's coolest restaurants and arty dive bars where you can do some serious people watching.




There's no denying that Texas is a state obsessed with sports. As the plane came in to land, I counted several football fields on the way down, and any time we went into a bar or restaurant, it was guaranteed there'd be a TV playing one game or another. While I have no interest in sports while at home, we were taken to a Dallas Mavericks basketball game, and to be honest, I had a blast. Perhaps it was because there were more cheerleader routines, silly games, and adverts than actual sport being played, but the atmosphere was incredible and you could feel the buzz of enthusiasm coming off the crowd.


Next on the itinerary was Fort Worth, and until we arrived, I didn't know much about this city other than it had a long association with cowboys. Sitting in a car about the size of my living room as it pulled into Fort Worth, the first thing I saw was a group of men in cowboy hats, and it was not an uncommon sight. A young man even opened the hotel door for me, tipping his hat when I thanked him.


The historic Fort Worth Stockyards are a major draw for tourists. Once a thriving livestock market, the buildings have since been turned into cowboy themed souvenir shops and restaurants. One tradition that has stood the test of time is the cattle drive. Twice a day, the crowds of tourists are pushed back onto the pavement and a herd of Texas Longhorns are skillfully guided down the street by cowboys on horseback.




Of course, it wasn't just cowboys who had these rough jobs. The National Cowgirl Museum & Hall of Fame honours the women of the American West who lived through challenging times. There are interactive displays and artifacts from cowgirl boots to pistols, as well as the chance to have a ride on a bucking bronco.


For our final night in Fort Worth, there was only one place to go celebrate, and that was Billy Bob's - the world's largest honky tonk. A gigantic building that's kind of a cross between a music venue, pool hall, restaurant, and amusement arcade, Billy Bob's was packed with people and lit with neon signs, giving it a real party vibe. Sadly, with a plane to catch the next day, I had to call it a night after one Ranch Water (Tequila Blanco, sparkling water, and lime - trust me, it's the new gin and tonic), although the venue is open until 2am at weekends for those who can handle it.




So, which was my favourite of the three cities? What I loved about visiting these places in a short amount of time is that I felt I saw many different sides to Texas in one trip. There was the cosy and homely in Grapevine, the arty and inventive side in Dallas, and the old traditions of cowboy (and cowgirl) culture in Fort Worth. I'd gladly hop on a plane and go back to any of them, but Grapevine definitely stood out as a place to revisit, especially for a family trip. Perhaps I was swayed by the Christmas decorations and friendly, small town vibe. Or maybe I'm regretting not getting a slice of the fifth best pie in the USA.

Book the holiday

A package including one night in Grapevine, five nights in Fort Worth, and two nights in Dallas, including direct London to DFW flights starts at £1645 pp based on two sharing. For more information, call Bon Voyage on 023 80248 248 or visit www.bon-voyage.co.uk


Find out more about Texan cities and destinations at www.traveltexas.com

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