These soft pretzel sticks come from chef Grant Achatz, who is known for his boundary-pushing technique. But Achatz also loves tweaking classic comfort foods to be the best versions of themselves. The yeasted dough is both boiled and then baked, becoming tender and fluffy with the classic chewy exterior speckled with flaky salt. “I’ve always been a fan of any food high in salt and starch,” Achatz says, “and soft pretzels right out of the oven are awesome.”

The key to the perfect pretzel texture

Pretzels get their characteristic chew from a quick boil in an alkaline (low pH) solution before baking, which creates a chemical change that improves browning and makes for a glossy, toothsome “skin” on the surface. German pretzels were originally boiled in an alkaline solution of lye and water; food-grade lye is widely available, though it can be dangerous if not handled correctly. This recipe mimics the technique by blanching the pretzels in water with baking soda instead.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

You can eat these slightly sweet pretzel sticks plain, with mustard, or — as Achatz prefers — with ranch dressing.