Queuing up for a steaming plate of biryani is a familiar sight in Hyderabad. But to find a huge crowd snaking down a sidewalk in Saudi Arabia’s Jeddah is a scene that feels entirely out of place.

Yet, in the city’s Aziziyah district, this is the daily norm. Here, a diverse mix of desi expats and locals go on a pilgrimage to the modest, 34-year-old spot called Mughal Biryani. The long lines outside the spot prove that the hunt for the perfect place of rice is truly universal.

Run by a Hyderabadi man named Saleem, this tiny, unassuming restaurant is one of the most exclusive lunch clubs in the Kingdom. And it operates on a clock that waits for no one.

A 60-minute window for Hyderabadi Biryani

The rules at Mughal Biryani are simple: the shop opens at around 1 pm and shuts in exactly one hour. There are no extended hours, no evening service and no second servings. For Saleem, this one-hour window is the only way to manage his daily production, which is usually 5-6 deghs (pots).

The process starts long before the doors open. By 11 am, the queue is already forming on the sidewalk in Aziziyah. It is a mix of workers on their lunch break and locals who have built their schedules around the shop’s narrow operating time. For a flat price of 20 Riyals, customers get a plate of traditional Hyderabadi biryani, served directly from the heavy dum deghs.

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The flavours of Mughal Biryani

Mughal Biryani keeps its menu straightforward, offering both mutton and chicken variants, served in the traditional Hyderabadi style.

Abdul Malik Fareed, a famous Saudi-based Pakistani blogger, put the establishment to the test in one of his vlogs. In his review, Fareed noted that while the meat is well-cooked, falling off the bone with minimal effort, the spice level is surprisingly mild. Unlike the fiery, heat-forward versions found in many traditional Hyderabadi joints, this biryani leans toward a balanced, subtle flavour that lets the quality of the ingredients take centre stage.

While the flavour profile of the biryani is a point of local debate, its popularity is undeniable. The fact that this humble spot attracts such a loyal following, including many local Arabs, speaks volumes about the enduring legacy and global appeal of the Hyderabadi cuisine.

Mughal Biryani is located in the Al Aziziyah district of Jeddah.