When you walk into Atrangi at Jumeirah Al Qasr, after a mini boat ride, the first thing that hits you isn’t just the grandeur of its setting but the warmth of nostalgia layered into every dish; it could be as simple as pani puri or cheese toast.

Behind this culinary journey is Ritu Dalmia, one of India’s most celebrated chefs, whose career has taken her from pioneering Italian cuisine in Delhi to opening restaurants in Milan and now Dubai. Known for her fearless honesty and deep respect for tradition, Dalmia has carved out a unique space in the global dining scene by refusing to dilute authenticity for the sake of trends.

Over a candid conversation, she spoke about what makes Atrangi, the Michelin Guide restaurant, special, the personal stories that shape her menus, lessons from decades in the kitchen, and why simplicity still excites her most about food. Excerpts from the conversation:

What inspired you to bring Atrangi to Dubai, and how does the city’s dining culture influence your menu?

To be honest with you Dubai was never on my horizon, mainly because I was being lazy and did not want to add another city in my flight schedules. However, it has been an amazing journey so far. For me, the dining culture plays a second role, so the first important thing for me is to be honest to my cuisine. This worked very well, as I wanted to do Indian community meals, and in a city like Dubai, which is dotted with great Indian restaurants, we have managed to carve a niche for ourselves.

Having cooked across India, Europe, and now the Middle East — how do you adapt your culinary philosophy for different regions without losing authenticity? For example, many Indian restaurants here cater to foreigners more than Indians due to their less spice tolerance.

As a chef and an entrepreneur, my philosophy has always been to remain true to the flavours of each cuisine. I have never bastardised Italian food for the Indian audience, and I will never do the same with Indian food overseas. Also, we need to break the myth that Indian food is super spicy. What we serve is homestyle Indian food, which is flavourful but does not make you want to grab ice water after your first bite

Atrangi’s setting at Jumeirah Al Qasr is quite spectacular. How important is ambience and location in shaping the overall dining experience?

Well, it definitely helps for sure. However, at times, you may have the most amazing setting, but if your product is substandard, then that really does not matter.

Indian cuisine has such incredible regional diversity. How do you decide which stories and flavours make it to your menu?

This is largely based on what we have recently tasted or tried. Aniket, our head chef, recently took a holiday in Bengal and Odisha. I have had some spectacular Gujarati home food, which made me cry with joy; I am sure both will feature in our next menu. Our food is truly based on memories and nostalgia.

What dish on the Atrangi menu feels the most personal to you — and why?

Belma Kachori with Aloo Petha is very special to me, as it was a dish which was prepared on every Diwali and Sundays during winter. I used to absolutely adore the dish. It is quite cumbersome to make, so I don’t get an opportunity to eat this very often, but every time I am in Dubai, I sneak in a plate for myself.

For you, what’s the fine line between keeping Indian food authentic versus making it globally appealing?

I have learnt through several of my mistakes in the past; the lesson is that you need to be clever about what you choose in your menu, and if the dish can be globally appealing without playing with its authenticity. For example, I would never make garlic chilly chutney from Rajasthan as it would be too overwhelming, or certain dishes from the tribal parts of north northeast India, as it would be way too strange for a global palette. Same with Italian food, I would not put squid ink pasta for Indian diners or endives and other bitters, which is again a bit too much.

You’ve had an extraordinary journey, from opening Diva in Delhi to running restaurants in Milan and now Dubai. Looking back, what were some pivotal lessons that shaped you as a chef?

The most important lesson is that being a chef does not mean you have to be cocky or arrogant. Humility and generosity of spirit make a massive difference.

With so many successful ventures, what excites you most about food right now?

Going back to basics, simplicity of food and not forgetting the food that we grew up with.

You’ve often spoken about learning from both success and failure. How did those early challenges shape the chef you are today?

I have always been very emotionally involved with all my restaurants, but my failures have made me realise that if something is not working, we need to cut our ties; otherwise, it will bring the whole organisation down. It is still not easy, but I can proudly say that we run a healthy and self-sufficient business.

How do you handle the pressure of being seen as both a restaurateur and a “celebrity chef”?

Am I a celebrity chef? I doubt it.. I am an introvert and not a very social person and honestly lead a very quiet life, which is imperative for my well being after being surrounded by people when I am working.

What advice would you give to young chefs in Dubai or India who aspire not just to cook, but to build a brand and identity like you have?

Listen to all the advice you can get, but in the end, follow what your guts tell you to do.

What’s your ultimate comfort food when you’re not cooking for others?

Depends on my mood, either a simple home-cooked Indian meal, or a pasta just tossed with basil and tomatoes.

Do you have a favourite dining spot in Dubai outside of your own restaurant?

I love going to the Time Out Market; I really cannot bear to eat at fancy restaurants any more. I also quite like Lila’s Taqueria.

For home cooks in Dubai who want to elevate their Indian cooking, what’s one simple trick you’d share?

Don’t overdo it, and don’t use too many spices; each dish needs to have one spice as a hero, whether it is cumin, mustard seeds or heeng.

Dubai: Why Chic Nonna’s chef Francesco Torcasio likes his pasta a bit burnt Gaza: Viral 11-year-old Palestinian chef who makes 'famine bread' escapes to Europe