In the South, people tend to be loyal to one green: turnip, mustard, or collard. In fact, where chef Edna Lewis was raised in Virginia, collards weren’t grown at all, and she always maintained a prejudice against them — except in this recipe. To make it, you’ll first want to simmer a smoke-cured pork shoulder hock or smoked country bacon for a couple of hours to produce the pork stock for braising the greens.
The important thing to watch for when buying collards is that the leaves have no yellow or discolored areas — they should be a deep, vibrant green throughout. Texture-wise, look for firm, crisp leaves that are securely attached to the stems; skip bunches that appear soft, waxy, or wilted. Lastly, avoid collards that have an excessive number of small holes, as this could indicate insect damage or disease.
Smaller leaves tend to be younger, milder, and more tender than larger ones, but the long cook time and flavorful supporting ingredients here mean that even tougher, more bitter greens will become meltingly delicious.